Winterizing Figs

 

Growing figs in Maryland can be a fruitful endeavor, but it does take a little bit of planning. Figs come from the Mediterranean, where wintertime temperatures rarely dip below freezing. That is not the case in the Mid-Atlantic region. In Baltimore county, average winter lows are in the mid 20’s and frequently dip into the teens. An established fig tree can survive freezing weather, but will die back to the ground if sustained temperatures are too cold. Often, frost-killed trees will grow back from the crown, but depending on the damage, it may not fruit for a year or two. If you want to ensure that you’ll have figs every summer it’s best to plan for the winter.

Before planting, or evening buying a tree, the most important step is knowing your area’s typical climate extremes, and matching the tree to the space you have. If you live in the city, the growing season will be a bit longer than the county and the wintertime lows a little higher. In the country, and particularly in valleys or on hilltops, you are probably going to be seeing colder temps. Use this info to find a variety best suited to your location. For example, outside of the city, you might want to choose a cold hardy variety like Olympian, Brown Turkey, or Hardy Chicago.

This massive fig has several factors working in its favor. First, it’s in a courtyard, which shields it from strong, drying winds. The whitewashed brick walls aren’t close to the fig, but they are likely providing some solar gain in the winter. Third, it’s situated on a hill, so the coldest air settles away from the tree. Pretty neat.

Next, you’ll want to scout your yard for the microclimates which will be the most advantageous for your figs. The most important factor is access to sun and water, but in some cases you can use architecture to your fig’s benefit. For example, the warmest location is usually near a south-facing brick wall. The wall will never shade your tree, and bricks radiate heat absorbed by the sun even in the coldest days of winter. In fall, this could also potentially extend the ripening season for varieties like Kadota.

A fig planted in a wine barrel make a great patio plant. If you put in on a dolly, you can roll into your garage for the winter.

What if you don’t have a lot of in-ground real estate, but a sunny balcony? choose a compact variety that can be grown in a container. When winter comes, these can be moved inside to an unheated garage, or easily wrapped and protected against a building.

Most of us are not lucky enough to have a microclimate figs can overwinter in, and will need to provide a little extra care to winterize our trees, or risk them being damaged in the frequent freeze/thaw cycles.

Historically, the Italian immigrants who popularized figs in the northeast used a trenching method to get their trees through the winter. This requires digging a two foot deep trench slightly longer than the height of the fig, bundling the branches together, and partially excavating the rootball so that the ENTIRE TREE can be bent to the ground and laid in the trench. Then the trench is back-filled, ideally with the majority of the tree below the soil line and a bit of a mound on top, and then covered with a tarp and insulating leaves or mulch. A variation suspends the tree in the trench without backfilling, covering the trench with a sheet of plywood, then covering that with soil. With this method the entire tree is protected by the thermal mass of the ground, and while it will freeze, it doesn’t experience drying winds or the coldest temperatures.

At Edible Eden, we typically use another method, insulating the tree above ground. Start by giving the tree a thick blanket of mulch. Then, similar to the trenching method, you bundle the bendy branches into a central mass. Straw is packed between the branches and around the tree mass, using chicken wire to keep the straw in place. If you already have a deer proofing cage on your figs, this is a great second use. Next swaddle the cage in a few layers of burlap, followed by a waterproof membrane such as a tarp or tarpaper. Make sure that the tarp extends to the ground and is layered in a way that will shed water, if possible top the whole thing with a bucket. Finally, pack some soil around the base of the whole thing, which gives some extra protection to the crown of the tree.

We find this method to be very effective and highly adaptable to fit the circumstances of individual trees. Are you interested in protecting your figs but finding the task daunting? Let us do it for you! Now is a great time to begin your garden winterization plans.

 

Our Practices: Plant Native!

In our March blog post, we kicked off a new series by laying out our top ecological values in our landscapes and gardens. We strive for the landscapes that we steward to:

 
Zebra Swallowtail (Protographium marcellus) ovipositing on Paw Paw tree. (Photo by Meghan McCarty - blueridgediscoveryproject.blogspot.com )

Zebra Swallowtail (Protographium marcellus) ovipositing on Paw Paw tree. (Photo by Meghan McCarty - blueridgediscoveryproject.blogspot.com )

  • Build the soil ecosystem, restoring our rapidly disappearing topsoil

  • Minimize the need for fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides

  • Catch stormwater, decreasing the threat of floods and reducing run-off and erosion

  • Trap carbon in the soil

  • Support biodiversity and native wildlife

  • Reduce and responsibly use waste

Last time, we discussed the importance of incorporating perennials to achieve the above goals. Today we want to share the importance of:

3. Planting Native

Native plants support native wildlife. Many insects, birds, and other animals have co-evolved alongside their food sources and habitats (plants!) and can only survive and reproduce alongside these specific species. As more land gets developed and non-native species continue to dominate our landscapes, we believe that it’s our responsibility to nurture the plant-animal interactions native to these soils. 

  • Some of our favorite Maryland-native plants include:

Asimina triloba - Paw Paw

Asimina triloba - Paw Paw

  • Paw Paw trees:

    Paw Paw trees (Asimina triloba) are the sole host plant for Zebra Swallowtail butterflies. A butterfly “host plant” is a specific plant that is edible to their caterpillars. It is the only place that the butterflies will lay their eggs. No Paw Paw, no Zebra Swallowtails! The Paw Paw’s unique, early spring flowers also produce a delicious edible fruit. Learn more about Paw Paw trees by clicking here!

 

 
Asclepias incarnata - Swamp Milkweed

Asclepias incarnata - Swamp Milkweed

  • Milkweed:

    We plant both Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa) and Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) in our gardens. Milkweeds are the well-known host plants of Monarch butterflies! 


Amelanchier canadensis - Shadbush / Serviceberry (Image by Tom Palmer - marylandbiodiversity.com )

Amelanchier canadensis - Shadbush / Serviceberry (Image by Tom Palmer - marylandbiodiversity.com )

  • Shadbush:

    Also known as Juneberry or Serviceberry, Shadbush (Amelanchier canadensis) is a beautiful flowering small tree or large shrub that is often used in landscapes for its ornamental value. The early blooms are an important Spring nectar source for beneficial pollinators and the edible fruits are loved by many birds, including orioles, cardinals, and cedar waxwings. The foliage is also a host to the caterpillars of several species of butterflies, including tiger swallowtail, viceroy (a monarch lookalike!), striped hairstreak, and red admiral. Click here for our Sweet Sweet Serviceberry Jam recipe!

 

 
Chasmanthium latifolium - Northern Sea Oats

Chasmanthium latifolium - Northern Sea Oats

  • Northern Sea Oats:

    Native grasses tend to be underappreciated, but there’s no denying the whimsical ornamental value of Northern Sea Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium). In addition to adding its flowing movement to your landscape, this grass is also a host plant to several species of equally whimsical skipper butterflies.

 

The plants covered in this post don’t even scratch the surface of our native biodiversity. There are plants that can be used for rain gardens, pollinator gardens, as part of your permaculture plan, or simply integrated into your decorative landscaping. Whichever native plants you choose to nurture, you are bound to appreciate the benefits of seeing your garden transform into a living, breathing ecosystem.

 

Our Practices: Plant Perennials!

 

In our March blog post, we kicked off a new series by laying out our top ecological values in our landscapes and gardens. We strive for the landscapes that we steward to:

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  • Build the soil ecosystem, restoring our rapidly disappearing topsoil

  • Minimize the need for fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides

  • Catch stormwater, decreasing the threat of floods and reducing run-off and erosion

  • Trap carbon in the soil

  • Support biodiversity and native wildlife

  • Reduce and responsibly use waste

Last time, we discussed the importance of avoiding soil disturbance to achieve the above goals. Today we want to share the importance of:

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2. Incorporating Perennials

    • Perennials bring a permanence to our gardens that annual crops just can’t provide. While annuals are removed from the garden season by season, perennials stay in the ground year after year. This means that they disturb the soil less and provide year round habitat and food for wildlife. But their permanence also gives them the opportunity to grow a robust root system that holds soil in place (reducing erosion), to dig down deep (breaking up soils and accessing hard to reach nutrients), and to foster an extensive relationship with soil biology (which won’t have to be reestablished every season).

    • Our favorite perennials serve many purposes.

      • Fruit: Brambles, bushes, and trees can provide the above benefits while supplying delicious fruit and berries for people and birds alike.

      • Herbs: Lavender, sage, thyme, and oregano are all hardy perennial herbs which make excellent ornamental plants as well as sources for culinary herbs. Their small, compound flowers are ideal for pollinators and beneficial insects.

      • Pollination: We like to plant native flowering perennials like milkweed, cone flowers, and black-eyed susans to provide nectar and habitat for native pollinators. 

      • Dynamic Accumulation: Plants like comfrey are credited as dynamic accumulators which send down deep taproots to pull nutrients up to the top of the soil where neighboring plants can access them.

    • To keep from disturbing your perennials’ roots, we don’t recommend growing them in raised beds with annual crops. Rather, we recommend that you grow them nearby enough that they will attract pollinators and through-out your property to maximize their benefit.

 
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PASA 2020

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Last month, our team attended the Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture (PASA) Conference. We had the opportunity to attend classes from leading experts in soil science, holistic orchard management, mycology, food sovereignty, and more! We always love connecting with folks who share our values of stewarding the earth, supporting biodiversity and ecosystem health, and eating fresh, local, delicious food. We are especially grateful for the good folks at PASA and all of their supporters who make scholarships and work-shares possible - We appreciated the opportunity to drive our whole team up and found volunteering to help the event run smoothly particularly rewarding!


Attending this conference gave us the opportunity to catch up with the most recent research and practices in regenerative agriculture and reassess our own values and practices. While the inspiration is fresh in our minds, we figured now is a good time to share a little more in-depth information about our practices in the garden and how they align with our values and the permaculture, organic, and regenerative agriculture movements. 

Along with producing the most delicious food and looking beautiful; we strive for the landscapes that we steward to:

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  • Build the soil ecosystem, restoring our rapidly disappearing topsoil

  • Minimize the need for fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides

  • Catch stormwater, decreasing the threat of floods and reducing run-off and erosion

  • Trap carbon in the soil

  • Support biodiversity and native wildlife

  • Reduce and responsibly use waste

For the next few months, we’ll be sharing one aspect of our garden practices and we will talk about how those growing practices help to achieve the goals listed above. Follow along to learn more about us and for tips on how to make your farm, garden, or landscape more eco-friendly!

  1. Avoid disturbing the soil


Topsoil is disappearing at an alarming rate - some sources calculate that topsoil is disappearing between 10 to 40 times faster than it can be replenished, and that we only have around 60 years of usable topsoil left. When soil is not managed properly, it can become compacted and dusty. Poor soil management can lead to higher risk of floods, dust storms, and desert-like dead zones. 


Why should we care about soil?

Because healthy soil is an incredible tool for sequestering carbon and soaking up storm water, and it’s a necessary factor in producing good food. In a large part, the soil’s organic matter and the soil biology (fungus and micro-bacteria) provides good structure and the ability to soak up carbon and water. Additionally, recent research has shown that relationships between plant roots and soil mycelium (fungus) is the primary way that most plants take up nutrients. 

Broadfork image, courtesy of Lehman’s

Broadfork image, courtesy of Lehman’s

The conventional practice of tilling soil destroys soil structure and creates a dusty top layer with a compacted, impenetrable layer underneath. The dusty soil is blown or washed away, while the compacted soil means storm water does not get absorbed. This can lead to flooding and polluted run-off entering our water systems. In contrast, leaving the soil undisturbed leads to spongy, healthy soil and provides an environment in which soil microbiology can thrive. This, in turn, gives our plants access to all the nutrients and minerals they need without adding chemical fertilizers. 


At Edible Eden, rather than tilling established beds, we use broad forks and digging forks to prepare our beds, encourage aeration and drainage, and integrate new nutrients. These tools allow for soil penetration with minimal disturbance while maintaining soil structure. While tilling breaks up every chunk of soil into fine particles, the idea of broad forking is to slide the tines of your broad fork into the soil and pull backwards to gently lift up big chunks. This maintains the structure of these chunks, while creating minimally intrusive crevices in the soil into which water, air, and nutrients can permeate.